Cycling Shoes - Some Tips

by Adam Roberts

Creating a good foundation to become a better cyclist

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Everyone who rides a bike would like to be better. It’s in our nature to want to excel, but often riders are putting themselves at an immediate disadvantage by having ill-fitting shoes. During more than 10 years as a bike fitter I have fit people with a wide range of ability, but one common factor that links them all is a lack of importance placed on their shoes. For the last 3 years I have measured the feet of everyone I see as part of the fitting process. Before that I would just feel the shoe of the client and comment on the size, but measuring the length and width of each foot has really told a story.

I feel that the shoes are the foundation of a sound bike position and therefore performance on the bike. After all, the power is pushed through the shoes, so why wouldn’t you spend more time getting them right.


So, what should you be looking for in a shoe?

 
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It depends on what riding you are doing, but essentially you don’t want excessive movement of the foot in the shoe, as this leads to problems such as numb feet, hot spots on the feet, knee pain and more importantly for most, a loss of power transfer. The best way to ensure there isn’t excessive movement in the shoe is to choose the right size and to select a shoe with precise fastenings.

Let’s deal with the type of shoe first.

BOA ratchet systems are more expensive than Velcro straps

BOA ratchet systems are more expensive than Velcro straps

A shoe goes up in price based on the material and the number/type of fastenings, or the more BOAs (the circular ratchet system), the more expensive it becomes. A Velcro strapped shoe would normally be at the lower price point, as it’s a cheap fastening and not very precise. A shoe with 2-3 BOAs, however, will offer the rider the option to have the fastenings at differing tightness as needed, therefore keeping the foot secure. Always choose the best shoe your budget allows and one with as many precision fastenings as possible. Try to avoid laces, as while they can secure your foot quite well, it’s difficult to adjust the tightness to different parts of your feet.

What about triathlon shoes?

A triathlon shoe is not always best for long-distance triathlons

A triathlon shoe is not always best for long-distance triathlons

I often get asked about triathlon shoes. As a fitter, I am not a fan of triathlon shoes as they are designed to get your foot in and out easily during transition and not to secure your foot. So, I would advise short distance triathletes to do the bulk of the training with a road shoe and then transition to a tri shoe leading up to events. For distances like half and full iron man I would just use a good fastening road shoe, as the seconds you would save using a tri shoe in transition, you’ll lose in the power transfer on the bike; making it a false economy.


How to get the size right?

Of the clients I see, the majority have shoes which are too big. In terms of length, you should get your feet measured, but if you can’t do this then you are looking for a shoe that offers around 3-4mm of room for your longest toe, so when your feet get hot on a long summer ride, there is a little bit of room for your toes to expand. Any more length than this and your foot will move during the pedal stroke. You should also measure the width. Most of the problems I have experienced with cyclists’ feet are due to them having squeezed their feet into shoes that are too narrow. Never go up a size to accommodate the width. You need to find a true, wide-fitting, shoe like Fizik R4 Wide Classique, Sidi Mega or Lake Wide Fit. At LIOS we stock a full size range of the Fizik R4 wide fit shoes.

You could, as an experiment, draw around your feet on some cardboard or stiff paper and then take out your insoles and place over the outlines. If the length of your insole is more than 4 mm longer than your drawing, then you could go for a smaller shoe. If the width of the foot drawing exceeds the width of the insole, then you know your feet are being squeezed in from the sides and you need a wide fitting shoe. 

Foot measuring guide

If you are unlucky enough to have more than a full-size discrepancy between feet, then you have two options: (1) Get a custom pair of shoes; (2) You could buy two pairs in different sizes. Trying to live with a shoe the wrong size on one foot isn’t great, especially if you are cycling a lot. If you have a wide foot but a narrow heel then choose a shoe with an adjustable heel. 

Also consider your toes. For example, my toes curl up at the end so my toenail can touch the top of the toe cap area. Some people have claw like toes. Always look at the shape of the toe box on the shoe. Some shoes are very low profile and do not offer sufficient space for the height of the toes, so it’s another important consideration to make.


How do I to put on my cycling shoe properly?

As I watch my clients putting on their cycling shoes, 9/10 do it incorrectly. They loosen off the top strap or BOA and force the foot to the front of the shoe and tighten the top strap or BOA back up. This isn’t helping position the foot correctly.

The correct way to put on a cycling shoe is to:

1. Loosen off every strap or fastening.

2. Place your foot in the shoe and pull your heel back into the heel cup.

3. Work your way down the shoe starting with top fastening and finishing off at the toe end.


Foot Support

I’ve yet to find a cycling shoe that comes with an insole that supports the arch. They all flop around and offer no support at all. For the occasional cyclist with an average arch, it isn’t too much of a problem but for those cycling more than 50 miles at a time or a rider with very low or very high arches, this can cause issues.

The Pro 2620 insole from G8 Performance

The Pro 2620 insole from G8 Performance

For a rider with very high arches, a lack of support can lead to a pain or an ache underneath the arch. For someone with flat feet, the issues highlighted are hot spots and numb feet.  

The answer is the same for both type of riders, a rigid arch support and a solid heel support in the insole. The current popular choice amongst bike fitters are G8 Performance Pro 2620 insoles, as they are a modular system where you can experiment with the level of the arch support and the placement of arch both forward and backward and from side to side. Pushing a flat foot up under the arch can certainly take pressure off parts of the foot being compressed in the pedal stroke that aren’t designed to be compressed. Also giving the foot the correct shape in the shoe can help with pushing the power through the feet. G8 Pro 2620 insoles are available online and in store from LIOS.

Correctly sized and fitted shoes are fundamental to the rider’s performance and comfort. A shoe size analysis and cleat set up is part of every bike fit I do. If you feel your shoes aren’t quite right, then contact us for a consultation.